tiistai 2. lokakuuta 2012

Paris Fashion Week: Spring 2013 RTW, part III

Saint Laurent

Needless to say, I suppose, that I was nervously waiting for this show to happen, just like so many people. It's only early in the morning as I sit here writing this. I looked carefully through the collection while a small part of me was still somewhere in the lingering dreams of the night before.

What a marvelous combination: the dreamy haze I'm in and the collection.

Pussybows, super slim trousers and loads of attitude and bohemian spirit. Thank you, yes please. (And I'm not even that big a fan of wide-brim hats, unless they are thrown on with the right kind of styling, that is.)

Oh my. The sort of dramatics I'm very into. The sort of american feel I like. I saw in these looks the sixties, the nineties. Women who really know what they want. Sex, definitely and while I tend to mostly steer away from things sexy (well, at least things so obviously and commercially sexy that keep popping out everywhere), surprise surprise: this was the sort of sexiness that speaks to me. 

I have a feeling I may not be the only one who feels this way, not alone in thinking that this collection will sell nicely. It's commercial. But I felt that nothing was sacrificed in the altar of commercialism. To me this collection also has a point to it, too, something meaningful in it that makes it stand up on it's own.

A tidbit about yours truly: I loved westerns as a kid. Still do. As a fan of Claudia Cardinale in Once Upon a Time in the West I had a smirk on my face as I kept on looking though the show. 

Oh, and those necklaces that strongly resembled spurs? Oh hell yes.

Another thing that delighted me was the absence of the peplum. I'm tired of seeing them everywhere to be honest with you, dear reader. There was not much of a trace of the Orientalism / Japonisme so very strongly present in countless of other shows either and that too pleased me. It was refreshing to see something else for a change.

"asdoinrnqpiubtt fgoiä !!!!!" was the reaction when I saw this particular look. The cape !!!! Oh my goodness.

I saw Mr. Saint Laurent's designs in the kind of elegance that was present in the looks Mr. Slimane sent down the runway. I think Hedi Slimane did a better job with this collection than Raf Simons over at Dior, were we to compare their works from the perspective of how their work suited the images of these two houses. Whether such a comparison is actually relevant or not, well, I don't necessarily think it is. There is so much uptightness in the fashion universe, such unnecessary seriousness. But now I'm wandering away from the actual topic at hand.

I liked the colours in the finale, they felt relevant as parts of the collection. And the westerny witchy vibe, it was done so well. Of course there was (at least to me) something slightly corny in this collection, but I liked that, too. It made the whole thing human.

With so many looks (66), there was bound to be some repetition, but even that didn't bother me as much as it could have done. The accessories were good and fit the mood perfectly.

How will I feel about the collection as a bit more time passes and the dreamy haze dissolves, that remains to see. But right now I'm most definitely charmed.


Haider Ackermann

I may be repeating myself a bit here, but there's this one certain word that comes to mind when I think about this collection here. The word is structured, beautiful, big fat YES.

Haider Ackermann served my favourite take on the Japonisme. There were no gimmicks there, it was so pleasantly structured and lavish at the same time. A balance well achieved. Then add the impeccable use of colour and prints and one gets what to me is the best collection of Paris Fashion Week (so far).

Pure bliss. Nothing extra, everything has a point. Every line, every detail. The shoes were gorgeous, the belts   were used so well. It all made sense just so loudly. I don't know what to say, in all honesty. Have a look at a few of the finale looks:

It's been a while since I've seen sophistication look this cool.

All photos from www.style.com

There will be at least one more of these thingies where I babble on about collections that have caught my curiosity. Thank you for reading!

1 kommentti:

  1. Koin tuon Saint Laurentin kuvat lähes järkyttävinä, koska ne on ihan kun joku ois kaapannu mun vaatekaapin ja lisänny vitusti volumea. Mustaa, pitkää helmaa, läpikuultavaa mustaa, hattuja, bleisereitä, rusetteja kaulassa, uniformu henkinen takki... No eihän tuosta sitten tosiaan voikkaan kun tykätä, satuin just ostamaan läpikuultavan pussybow-paidankin kirppikseltä hahah olen vahingossa fashion :D Tästä tietysti saa lisä inspiraatio vielä. Haider Ackermanninkin kokoelma on hyvännäkönen, kauniita linjoja ja upeaa hohtoa.